There is also the prospect of being able to depart Base Camp for a couple of days and drop down to, say Pangboche or Deboche which, at around 3, to 3,, are places where you can rest and recuperate.
There is also potential of a much better acclimatisation schedule on the Nepal side. That way we will be a better bonded group when we get there and will probably be in better mental and physical shape than if we had charged straight up The Khumbu to get to Base Camp in 9 or 10 days. And lastly, there is the possibility of helicopter rescue on the south side too.
So … you decide. But it is a lot of money to gamble with and if you want to be safer and have a higher chance of summiting the it has to be The South Side. Located on a moving glacier, tents can shift and platforms melt. The area is harsh but beautiful surrounded by Pumori and the Khumbu Icefall with warm mornings and afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition tents, pathways and generators, it feels like a small village. Reaching C1, is the most dangerous part of a south climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall.
But it is the extremely hot temperatures that takes a toll on climbers. Climbing the Lhotse Face to C3 is often difficult since almost all climbers are feeling the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep and the ice is hard. The route is fixed with rope. The angles can range from 20 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to C3 but is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. It starts steep but settles into a sustained grade as the altitude increases.
Climbers are usually in their down suits and are using supplemental oxygen for the first time. Bottlenecks can occur on the Yellow Band. This section can be a surprise for some climbers. The top of the Spur leading onto the South Col has some of the steepest climbing thus far. It is easier with a good layer of snow than on the loose rocks. Welcome to the moon. This is a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Everest to the north and Lhotse on the south.
Generally, teams cluster tents together and anchor with nets or heavy rocks against the hurricane force winds. This is the staging area for the summit bids and the high point for Sherpas to ferry oxygen and gear for the summit bid. Officially now on Everest, climbers are using supplemental oxygen to climb the steep and sustained route up the Triangular Face.
The route is fixed with rope and climbers create a long conga line of headlamps in the dark. The pace is maddeningly slow complete with periods of full stop while climbers ahead rest, consider the decision to turn back or continue to the balcony.
It can be rock or snow depending on the year. Rock fall can be an deadly issue and some climbers now use helmets. They swap oxygen bottles at the Balcony while taking a short break for some food and water. The climb from the Balcony to the South Summit is steep and continuous. While mostly on a beaten down boot path, it can be challenging near the South Summit with exposed slabs of smooth rock in low snow years.
The views of Lhotse and the sun rising to the east is indescribable at this point. One of the most exposed section of a south side climb is crossing the cornice traverse between the south summit and the Hillary Step. But the route is fixed and wide enough that climbers rarely have issues. Usually there is an up and down climbing rope to keep people moving. The last section from the Hillary Step to the summit is a moderate snow slope. Care must be taken to avoid a misplaced step down climbing the Hillary Step, the Cornice Traverse or the slabs below the south summit.
Also diligent monitoring of oxygen levels and supply is critical to make sure the oxygen lasts back to the South Col. Usually climbers are quite tired but happy to be returning to the higher natural oxygen levels regardless of their summit performance. It can be very hot since most climbers are still in their down suits. Return to base camp: 4 hours Packs are heavy since everything they hauled up over the preceding month must be taken back down.
It is now almost June so the temperatures are warmer making the snow mushy thus increasing the difficulty. But each step brings them closer to base camp comforts and on to their home and families. For a more detailed description and animated route map, please see the South Col route page.
The first attempt was by a British team in Mallory led a small team to be the first human to set foot on the mountains flanks by climbing up to the North Col m. It was also on this expedition that the first deaths were reported when an avalanche killed seven Sherpas. If they did summit, that would precede Tenzing and Hilary by 29 years.
A Chinese team made the first summit from Tibet on May 25, In , on a successful summit expedition, the Chinese installed the ladder on the Second Step. Tibet was closed to foreigners from to preventing any further attempts until a Japanese team summited in via the Hornbein Couloir on the North Face.
The north side started to attract more climbers in the mid s and today is almost as popular as the South side when the Chinese allow permits. In and , obtaining a permit was difficult thus preventing many expeditions from attempting any route from Tibet. More details can be found on the Northeast Ridge route page. All vehicle assisted evacuations start here. Does pretty much every climber on the north side drive up to base camp or is there a trek? Thanks Zach. Yes, everyone drives to the so called Chinese Base Camp.
There is no trek like on the south side. I guess it is possible but would require permits from the Chinese, etc. Thanks Alan. What is the elevation gain during the drive? One of the many awesome things about the trek on the south side is that you can take your time and acclimate well to the higher altitude.
I would think that driving to base camp, one would have a tougher time acclimatizing. One of the worst nights of my life was when I did Cayumbe in Equador. We drove up to that lodge at about 17, feet and it was such misery. We did a few acclimatization hikes beforehand but it was still brutal….
Climbers never drive straight through for the reasons you mention. Once at BC 17k , you spend another few days adjusting before starting the climb. What a great article Alan! Some great information on both routes, well done. Fantastic job Alan…lots of information and so well done. Just got back from the South Pole…. Get well! I miss the mountains. Site Home. January 28, at pm. Hey Alan, Wow. Thanks, Zachary Zaitzeff. Alan Arnette. January 29, at am. Paul Keen. January 26, at am. Absolutely fascinating read, Alan, thank you.
January 25, at am. Mount Everest Facts.
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